In our series on mind-body fitness, we are happy to share yet another travelogue by Rajesh Sadasivan, a Boston-based tech executive and a marathoner. Rajesh has attended MindGym workshops and recommends using a holistic mind-body training approach to hikers who are aspiring for a challenging climb like Mt. Mera in Nepal.
Introduction: The Allure of Mount Mera
Standing tall at 6,476 meters (21,370 ft), Mount Mera is a Himalayan gem that offers both seasoned climbers and ambitious rookies a chance to test their limits. Known as a "trekking peak," it demands stamina, determination, and just the right dose of humor. The journey to its summit is as breathtaking as the views it rewards—a mix of lush valleys, glacial crossings, and panoramic vistas of the world’s tallest mountains. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and more play spectators as you ascend.
This isn’t just a climb; it’s a saga of camaraderie, frozen toes, and unforgettable moments under a star-lit Himalayan sky. Whether you're drawn by the challenge, the scenery, or the bragging rights, this travelogue captures the essence of what it’s like to journey to the roof of Nepal, sprinkled with laughter, life lessons, and practical tips for future mountaineers.
Kathmandu: A Warm-Up Act in Chaos
Kathmandu is what happens when you mash up a tier-2 Indian city with a fog machine and a bustling vibe that won’t quit. The streets are narrow, the air is hazy, and yet, there’s a charm to it all. The 3 million people—mostly Hindus and Buddhists—buzz around with purpose. Saturdays are holidays here, but Sundays? Back to the grind. Oh, and the timezone? 15 minutes ahead of India, because why not?
The big decision here wasn’t which temple to visit or which momo stall to hit up. It was whether to take Diamox (altitude sickness meds). After enough back-and-forth to make a soap opera proud, I decided to take it. Cue the side effects: frequent nighttime bathroom trips. If nothing else, this hike promised bladder discipline. To adjust to the time zone and pre-hike jitters, I popped a melatonin and drifted off, dreaming of peaks and paths yet to come.
Pro Tip for Climbers: If you're unsure about altitude medication, consult a doctor or someone who’s climbed before. Diamox can help prevent Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), but it comes with side effects, like increased urination. Stay hydrated and plan your water intake accordingly. Also, melatonin can help adjust your sleep schedule before the climb.
Day 1: Heli Hype and a Hike to Remember
Nov 10 also happened to be my wedding anniversary. After sending a sentimental message to the wife (she’s a saint), I braced for adventure. Fog at Kathmandu’s airport grounded flights to Lukla—"the most dangerous airport in the world." Our solution? A helicopter. For $300 extra per person, we got a thrilling ride, with our luggage weight (500kgs in total) carefully balanced like contestants in a reality show.
The flight itself was surreal. The Himalayan vistas unfolded like a live postcard, the peaks playing hide-and-seek with the clouds. The Lukla runway—a short, slanted strip carved into the mountains—was every bit as nerve-wracking as its reputation. Pro tip: If you have to choose between waiting for a flight or paying extra for a helicopter, pick the latter. Time is precious in the mountains.
The trek began in earnest at Lukla. Four hours, 5 kilometers, and 2,900 feet later, we arrived in Chuthanga (11,500 ft). The trail was magical, lined with prayer flags fluttering in the wind and rhododendron trees dotting the landscape. As the sun set mid-hike, we needed headlamps to navigate. This was our first introduction to the Nepali concept of "water" ("Chhutenga Chhu") and "cold dal" ("Tanga"). A classic dal-bhat dinner later, we tucked into our tea-house beds, ready for more.
Day 2: Altitude and Attitude
My mom’s 80th birthday coincided with one of the trek’s hardest days. A steep climb to Chatharla Pass at 15,100 ft taught us that slow and steady wins the altitude race. Snow patches glistened under a feeble sun, and the air grew thinner with every step. We gained about 4,600 feet in elevation over nine hours, pushing ourselves to the limits.
Pace was everything, and "Vistara-Vistara" (slowly-slowly) became our mantra. Frequent water breaks, energy gels, and camaraderie kept spirits up. Carry energy gels and hydration packs to maintain your stamina—altitude takes a toll faster than you think. For many of us, the high altitude came with a sense of dizziness and sleepiness. Pro Tip: Take frequent breaks and never ignore symptoms of AMS like headache, nausea, or fatigue. If symptoms persist, consider descending to a lower altitude immediately.
The reward? A beautiful sunset over Chatharbuk and warm egg curry at dinner. Acclimatization was already proving to be an adventure within the adventure.
Day 3: The Nepali "Flat"
We descended to Kothe (11,700 ft), a journey deceptively described as "flat." Nepali flat, we discovered, meant relentless undulating trails. The lush Hinku Valley surrounded us, the roaring river below adding a soothing soundtrack to our journey.
We met inspiring folks along the way: a Croc-wearing tea-shop owner who danced her way up mountains and a piano-playing Spanish mountaineer who opted out of summiting to preserve his fingers for his art. Lesson of the day: summits are great, but stories are priceless. By the time we reached Kothe, a bustling town, the comforts of meat, a shower, and rakshi (Nepalese rice-based alcohol) felt like absolute luxuries.
Days 4-5: Glacier Gawking and the Khare Crawl
The trail to Thangnak (14000 ft) and then Khare Base Camp (16,100 ft) treated us to glacier views, shimmering under the sun like sheets of glass. We trekked alongside the Hinku Khola (“river”), the valley’s dramatic landscapes leaving us awestruck. A highlight was visiting Drupfuk monastery, where prayer wheels spun in rhythmic harmony with the wind.
By now, acclimatization hikes had become routine, though breathing at 50% oxygen levels was anything but. Nights were frigid, with frozen water bottles and icy toilet water. Tip: Bring insulated water bottles to avoid frozen hydration. Also, use water purification tablets or a filter; the mountain water is clean but may carry contaminants that your stomach won’t thank you for. But the first sight of Mera’s north face kept spirits high. Our guides checked gear, ensuring we were ready for the final push. Invest in reliable climbing boots, down jackets, and mittens—your survival depends on them.
Day 6: Ropes, Ice Axes, and Existential Questions
A training session with Sherpas gave us a crash course in mountaineering: jumars, crampons, and the art of not falling into a crevasse. It’s harder than it looks. Gear in check, we hiked to the lower base camp (17,100 ft), where the night’s highlight was surviving sub-zero temps in sleeping bags. Amidst frozen toes and endless layers, I pondered what my spouse might want most from me. The answer? Longevity—a goal the mountains were both testing and affirming.
Pro Tip: Practice using your gear—crampons, ice axes, and ascenders—before the climb. It’s easier to learn on solid ground than on a steep icy slope.
Days 7-8: The High Camp Hustle
The trek to high camp (19,000 ft) was brutal. Snowstorms and deep drifts turned every step into a battle. Oxygen levels dropped, wind speeds rose, and yet, the stars at night made it all worthwhile. High camp offered panoramic views of the Himalayan giants, their snow-capped peaks glowing under the moonlight. We crawled into tents, ate what little we could stomach, and prepped for the main event: summit day.
Day 9: The Summit Grind
Summit day began at 1 AM. Wrapped in endless layers, roped together, and battling -25°C temperatures, we trudged up 45-degree inclines in the dark. Winds howled, snow blasted us, and water bottles froze solid. Pro tip: Keep water bottles in socks inside your jacket to prevent freezing. Stay hydrated, even if it’s a struggle at altitude.
By sunrise, the exhaustion was palpable, but so was the magic. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu loomed like guardians as we pressed on to the summit at 6,476 m (21,370 ft). Six and a half hours after starting, we made it. The views? Pure, unfiltered glory.
Standing atop Mera Peak was surreal—an amphitheater of snow-clad titans surrounded us. Despite the bone-chilling cold, we captured photos to prove our feat and started the arduous descent. The journey back to high camp, and then to Khare, tested every ounce of strength. Hot chocolate and the warmth of camaraderie awaited us, celebrating not just the summit but the shared spirit of adventure.
The Aftermath: Kathmandu and Reflection
Returning to Kathmandu felt surreal. A helicopter ride shaved days off our return journey, leaving time for sightseeing in Thamel and reflections at Swyambhu Temple. I explored the bustling streets, visited Boudhnath Monastery, and marveled at the infamous Narayanhiti Palace, site of the royal massacre.
The trip wasn’t just about conquering a mountain; it was about laughter, resilience, and the unparalleled camaraderie forged in the thin air. The mountains may call me back someday. For now, though, they’ve taught me the value of the journey over the destination—and the occasional hot shower.
Mount Mera, you were a beast—but we’ll always have the memories (and the frostbite scars).
A big thank you to Friendship trekking (Dorchi), our guides (Nurbu, Dorji), the porters assisting us, and above all my friends Avinash, Srini, Sashi and Anand, without whom this would have been a distant dream.
Summary Table: Day-by-Day Itinerary
Day | Date | Activity | Elevation (ft) | Notes |
Day 1 | Nov 10 | Helicopter to Lukla, trek to Chuthanga | 11,500 | First hike, magical sunset views |
Day 2 | Nov 11 | Trek to Chatharla Pass | 15,100 | Steep climb, acclimatization day |
Day 3 | Nov 12 | Descend to Kothe | 11,700 | Nepali flat, lush valley views |
Day 4 | Nov 13 | Trek to Thangnak | 14,000 | Glacier views, monastery visit |
Day 5 | Nov 14 | Trek to Khare Base Camp | 16,100 | Acclimatization hikes, freezing nights |
Day 6 | Nov 15 | Acclimatization at Khare | 16,100 | Acclimatization hikes, Rest and Recoup |
Day 7 | Nov 16 | Training with Sherpas, trek to Lower Base Camp | 17,100 | Gear checks, survival skills |
Day 8 | Nov 17 | Trek to High Camp, final preparations | 19,000 | Windy, exhausting, Rest and prep for summit |
Day 9 | Nov 19 | Summit day: Mera Peak (6,476m/21,370ft), return to Khare | 21,370 summit | Brutal climb, snowstorms, but triumphant |
Aftermath | Nov 19-20 | Helicopter to Kathmandu, sightseeing (Thamel, Swyambhu, Boudhnath Monastery, Narayanhiti Palace) | Variable | Relaxation and reflection |
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